Wick System Starter Tote

At a Glance

How This System Works

The wick system is one of the oldest and simplest forms of hydroponics. It requires no pumps, no electricity, and no moving parts. Cotton wicks connect a lower reservoir of nutrient solution to an upper growing container filled with a lightweight growing medium (like perlite or a perlite/vermiculite mix). The wicks draw nutrient solution upward through capillary action, keeping the growing medium consistently moist.

Think of it like a self-watering planter, but instead of soil, you use an inert medium and hydroponic nutrients. The result is faster growth and more control over what your plants receive.

Why a tote? A single storage tote with an internal divider creates both the reservoir and growing bed in one compact unit. The design is clean, portable, and easy to set up on a table, shelf, or countertop.

Materials List

Our philosophy: Use what you already have. Hydroponics does not require store-bought equipment. People around the world grow food this way using recycled containers, scraps of fabric, and seeds saved from last season's harvest. The links below are for convenience if you prefer to purchase, but we encourage you to improvise with what is available to you.

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Container

You will need one opaque storage tote (at least 10-gallon capacity) to serve as the combined reservoir and grow bed. Use what you have: any opaque plastic bin, old storage container, or bucket will work. Check your garage, basement, or closet before buying. If you need one, a 10-gallon dark storage tote is a good size.

Note: You will also need a second, smaller container or a perforated platform to sit inside the tote as the upper grow bed. A plastic dish tub, bus tub, or nursery flat that fits inside the tote works well.

Wicks

Cotton wicking cord draws nutrient solution from the reservoir to the plants. This is the simplest part to find for free. Strips of old cotton t-shirts, cotton shoelaces, cotton rope from the hardware store, or even strips of felt all wick water effectively. Wick systems are all about simplicity, so grab whatever absorbent cotton material you have around. If you prefer to buy a spool, cotton wick cord (50 ft) gives you plenty for this build and future projects.

Net Cups

Net cups hold plants in the upper grow bed. Use what you have: cut the bottoms off small plastic cups and poke drainage holes in the sides. That is literally all a net cup is. If you want purpose-made ones, 3-inch net cups (25-pack) are reusable and inexpensive.

Growing Supplies

Starter plugs: Sponge pieces or cotton balls hold seeds until they sprout. You can also transplant small seedlings directly into the perlite. If you want a dedicated product, Rapid Rooter plugs (50-pack) make seed starting easy.

Nutrients: This is one item you do need to purchase. Plants growing in perlite have no natural source of minerals. One set of bottles lasts for months. A General Hydroponics Flora Series (3-part kit) is the most popular choice for beginners.

Monitoring

pH and EC testing: pH test strips from a pet store are a perfectly fine starting point. For more precise readings over time, a digital pH and TDS meter kit is a good investment.

Lighting (for indoor growing)

If you have a sunny window, start there. Basic shop lights with 4000K LED bulbs from a hardware store also work well. If you want lights designed for growing, full-spectrum 2 ft LED grow lights fit this size system nicely. For automating the light schedule, you can use a manual switch or pick up a programmable outlet timer.

Additional Materials (no affiliate link)

• Perlite or perlite/vermiculite mix (50/50), 8 quarts for the grow bed
• Plastic dish tub or bus tub that fits inside the storage tote
• Drill with 1/4-inch bit

Tools

• Drill with 1/4-inch bit
• Scissors
• Measuring cup for nutrients

Build Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Upper Grow Bed

Take your smaller container (dish tub or bus tub) and drill six 1/4-inch holes in the bottom, spaced evenly. These holes are for the wicks to pass through. Also drill several additional small drainage holes (1/8 inch) so that if you over-water from above, excess liquid drains back to the reservoir.

Tip: The upper container should sit on top of or inside the tote with at least 3–4 inches of space below it for the reservoir. You can rest it on the tote's rim, or place an inverted nursery pot inside the tote as a riser.

Step 2: Prepare the Wicks

Cut 6 lengths of cotton wick cord, each about 12 inches long. Thread one wick through each of the six 1/4-inch holes in the upper grow bed. About 4 inches of wick should hang below the container (into the reservoir), and about 8 inches should fan out above (spread through the growing medium).

Tip: Pre-soak the wicks in water before installing. Dry cotton wicks can be slow to start capillary action.

Step 3: Position the Upper Bed

• Place the upper grow bed container on top of or inside the storage tote
• The wick tails should dangle into the tote (reservoir space below)
• Ensure there is a stable, level fit — the upper container must not tip or wobble
• Verify there is 3–4 inches of reservoir space below the upper bed

Step 4: Fill the Growing Medium

• Fill the upper container with perlite or a 50/50 perlite/vermiculite mix
• Spread the wicks out radially as you fill so they are distributed throughout the medium
• Fill to about 1 inch below the rim of the upper container
• Pre-moisten the medium with plain pH-adjusted water

Step 5: Fill the Reservoir

Fill the lower section of the tote with nutrient solution:

• Use clean water and mix nutrients to half strength for starting
• Target pH: 5.5–6.5
• Target EC: 0.6–1.0 mS/cm for herbs and greens
• Fill until the water level reaches the bottom of the upper container (the wick tails should be submerged 3–4 inches)

Step 6: Plant Your Seedlings

• Start seeds in rapid rooter plugs 7–14 days ahead of time
• Once seedlings have roots showing, create 6 small holes in the perlite surface
• Space them evenly — about 4 inches apart in a 2x3 grid
• Place each seedling (still in its starter plug) into a hole
• Gently push perlite around the plug to hold it in place

Alternative: You can place net cups into the perlite surface for a more organized look. Cut 3-inch holes in a piece of rigid foam or plastic sheet laid on top of the perlite, and insert net cups filled with hydroton and your seedlings.

Step 7: Set Up Lighting

Safety Warning: Grow lights and timers are electrical devices. Plug into a GFCI-protected outlet and keep all cords away from the reservoir. Use a drip loop on any cord that runs near water.

Mount a 2-ft LED grow light 8–12 inches above the plants. Set a timer for 16 hours on / 8 hours off.

If growing on a sunny windowsill (south-facing, 6+ hours of sun), supplemental lighting may not be needed.

Step 8: Final Checks

• Verify wicks are damp and wicking solution upward (the perlite surface should feel moist within an hour)
• Check that the reservoir is filled to the correct level
• Confirm lights are on the correct timer schedule
• Label the system with crop types and start date

Nutrient Guide

Wick systems deliver nutrients passively, so plants receive a steady but moderate supply. Stick to light-feeding crops for best results.

Wick-specific note: Because nutrient delivery is passive, heavy-feeding plants (tomatoes, peppers) will struggle in this system. Stick to herbs, greens, and microgreens for reliable results.

Crop Suggestions

Estimated Cost

Tips & Troubleshooting

General tips:

• Use multiple wicks per plant for more reliable moisture delivery
• Perlite is preferred over vermiculite alone because it provides better aeration
• A 50/50 perlite/vermiculite mix gives good moisture retention with adequate air space
• Keep the reservoir topped off — wicks cannot pull water from an empty reservoir
• This system is exceptionally quiet and apartment-friendly since it has no pump or motor

Maintenance Schedule

Daily

• Quick visual check: does the growing medium look moist? Do the plants look healthy?
• If growing microgreens, mist the surface lightly if it appears dry

Weekly

• Check reservoir level — top off with pH-adjusted water or dilute nutrient solution
• Check pH — adjust to 5.5–6.5
• Inspect wicks — ensure they are still drawing moisture (the medium should feel damp when you press a finger into it)

Every 2–3 Weeks

• Full nutrient change — drain the reservoir, rinse, and refill with fresh solution
• Flush the growing medium — pour plain pH-adjusted water through the perlite to wash out salt buildup

Monthly

• Inspect wicks for wear — replace any that feel brittle or degraded
• Clean the inside of the reservoir tote
• Trim and harvest plants to encourage new growth
• Check that drainage holes in the upper bed are not clogged

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a wick system and Kratky hydroponics?

In a Kratky system, plant roots grow directly down into a reservoir of nutrient solution and rely on an air gap for oxygen. In a wick system, a cotton or nylon wick draws nutrient solution up from a separate reservoir into a growing medium like perlite, and the roots grow in that medium rather than directly in the water. Wick systems provide steadier moisture levels and are more forgiving for beginners since there is no air gap to manage.

What plants grow best in a wick hydroponic system?

Wick systems deliver nutrients passively, which means they work best with light-feeding plants such as lettuce, basil, cilantro, parsley, mint, spinach, and microgreens. Heavy-feeding fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers will struggle because the wicks cannot transport nutrients fast enough to meet their high demand during flowering and fruit production.

How often do you refill the reservoir in a wick system?

Check the reservoir at least once a week and top it off whenever the level drops below the point where the wicks are fully submerged. In warm conditions or with mature plants that transpire heavily, you may need to add water every two to three days. Every two to three weeks, fully drain and replace the nutrient solution with a fresh batch to prevent salt buildup and nutrient imbalances.

Can you use regular string instead of wick cord in a hydroponic wick system?

You can use any 100 percent cotton string, cotton shoelace, or strip of cotton fabric as a wick, and these household alternatives work nearly as well as purpose-made wick cord. The key requirement is that the material must be natural cotton fiber, not synthetic, because synthetic materials like polyester and nylon blends do not absorb water through capillary action effectively enough to keep the growing medium moist.